Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Recipe for chai - and a perfect day!

Yesterday, I cycled to Silversands. The camp was empty of guests - and almost empty of staff. I first met Meipal, who'd been home for the night and was on his way back to work. He'd seen me and came running, arms in the air, yelling - with a huge smile: "welcome Pernille madam". Besides Meipal, the only ones in camp were Negiji (Negi: last name - ji: for respect and age) and Manosh.

Even if there are no others, I cannot visit camp without at least one cup of welcome chai. Meipal  cooked - I documented:

 First, mash a big chunk of ginger and put in the pot with water

 Add tea powder

 And sugar...

When the mix is boiling pour it into the milk powder

And back in the pot

Add more tea

Finally pour the chai through the strainer into the cups

...And here you go a damn good cup of chai is ready!

After a cup of tea and a conversation in Hindi (the kitchen in Silversands has always been one of the best places to learn Hindi) and me promising to stay for lunch, I strolled down to the beach. Here, I could sit, first in the sun later in the shade to the view and sound of Ganga, reading Salman Rushdie's fantastic auto-biography until I was summoned back to the kitchen because lunch was ready. And who could anything but (yet again) love these guys for making a special table (out of a frost box) with chair and spending extra time making more and better food just for me? I couldn't! I can love the vegetable dish, the fresh chapatis, the cold and clear water, the suggested red chili for desert. All done just because they like me.  I can love to bits!

Saturday, November 17, 2012

Royal treatment

The Indians are such nice people. Not least the ones working at Atali!
This is their latest invention for me...

(The ankle is fine now, so that's not why)

Take off

A real queen of course waves to the photoprapher and the crowd

Entering the main gate

 An extra round for the queen

 Just a bit exited

Apparently, it takes 10 guys to carry 1 me.
PS: queen in hindi is rani... oh, and fat woman is moti. 

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Diwali - festival of lights

Autumn has definately reached - or perhaps even winter. Hard to tell as it is still sunny and warm during the days and the cold evenings aren't colder than you can still sit outside by the fire wearing sandals.

The change in seasons also brought Diwali, the biggest festival for the North-Indian hindus. Apparently, there are several reasons to celebrate Diwali, but in my hood, they're celebrating Rama's return after 14 years of exile (in these Garwhali mountains - also according to local history). All as it's been told in Ramayana and as I've been told by my friends.

Rama is welcomed by lighting tiny oil lamps for him (and for the following year's prosperity). On the other hand, the deamons are chased away with fire works and crackers.

There were no other guests at Atali over Diwali; therefore, most of the employees went back to their families on one or more well deserved days off. Last night we were only eight left, which is less than a fifth of the normal. More people were here during the day helping with the preparations.

To celebrate Diwali with all my Garwhali friends, I'd spent the night in Silversands (the rafting camp 3 km down the road) with the old bunch. Around the fire in the evening with a classic rum-pani (rum with water) and a perfect view to all the pretty tiny lights in the village Malakunti on the other side of the river.

The night was cold and clear, so all Diwali well wishes the following morning took place with a hot cup of chai and Indian sweets around the warm tandoor (oven). Those, who'd been home in the evening had brought traditional Diwali breakfast, which were very tasteful and greasy.



Jeetu is one of my very dear friends down here.

I went back to Atali after breakfast and spent my day halfways in bed - leg lifted (se previous post to know why...) and to wander around with my camera to document the preparations.

Hundreds of tiny oil lamps had been purchased for the decorations.

The lamps were put all over.


 General excitement over Diwali in the midst of the preparations.

It is by the way funny, how Im always reminded in India that gender roles are not god given or naturally. Not because they don't have very traditional gender roles down here that are perceived as plain facts. But because they differ in so many ways from the ones in Denmark. For instance, it is not at all weird that 10 guys spend most of their day putting up lights and decorating the premises - or for that matter that men holds hands and hugs - it is considered all natural - luckily. On the other hand, The Indians are some of the most frightened when it comes to homosexuality, though, in my experience, it is mostly a question of not knowing much about it.

While waiting - one of my favourite movies: 3 Idiots

At Diwali, it is custom to give something - that included me. Because of the ankle, I cant cycle and since the drivers had got back to their families, I got a ride on one of the staff's motorbike to Byasi 2 km up the road, where I could go mad in shopping fireworks to the boys.

And then it got dark and time to lit all the lamps. Atali was poetically beautiful. In the next photos there's no artificial light - except for one where I used my headlight to make the artists, who'd created this masterpiece, visible.
 Restaurant and fireplace

 Every light is a tiny oil lamp

 The staff canteen

  No camera would be able to catch all lights or the ambience, but this was the closest I got - and it even includes the artists.

After lights, dinner was served. Tasty fish curry - and of course a dessert. And then. Finally time for the fire crackers. They boys clearly preferred the big booms. And I found myself being the very concerned mother, who'd regularly yelled at her boys on what to do and how to be careful. Perhaps it was because I had bought some of the goodies that they actually listened to (most of) what I said.



Now Diwali is over. The staff is returning and the next guests will soon be arriving. But we will be fine, cause the lights were there...

Clumsy kids...

My friend Eva taught med the expression: "Stupid kids punish themselves", one of my favourite sayings. I was a pretty stupid kid in Canada as described in an earlier post.

Some times I am. A stupid kid. But Im ALWAYS a clumsy kid! And unfortunately it is the least honorable ways I hurt myself...

This time was no exception. 2 days ago I walked on a very straight paved road (which is rather rare around here) and twisted my ankle so thoroughly that it's still double size and the opposite knee got a rather big abrasion... You are allowed to pity me.

Therefore: "Clumsy kids hurt themselves"


Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Halloween - the Indo-Irish way

An Irish group came by Atali and stayed for Halloween. Hence, they asked if it was possible to make some pumpkin lanterns… They’ve never really had solid traditions of halloween in Garwhal. Still, they took the challenge – and seemed to enjoy their afternoon of cutting and hollowing the lanterns.

The kitchen staff had spent all afternoon making different shapes – the classic faces of course, but also arrowed hearts and stars.

A vegetable flower decorated pumpkin – halloween goes India. Vinod and Pushuttam are the creative minds. Do notice the beet root rose.

Celebrating halloween – irish folk dance meets Garwhali singing, clapping and dancing

Spotted in Rishikesh

One way to spend an afternoon


Atali is situated on a hill side. This implies that you, no matter what else you decide to do in a day, pass an impressible number of steps (which I’ll gladly admit has had a noticeable effect on my behind…). Right at the top is the high ropes field, so the best bit of fitness advice you’ll get around here, is to start your day by going to the high ropes field and then make sure to forget something when you head down.

A high ropes field is, by the way, an installation of wires on poles – just about 30 feet above ground. All wires between the poles being different obstacles. Some challenges are easy, others very far from being easy – rather difficult you could say. 

Nevertheless, I completed the entire course on my very first go – and that even without getting further help from the “cow’s tail” that kept me attached to the wires in case I would slip, than the security its mere presence imposed. And in spite of using some rather unusual techniques (efficient rather than elegant) at some of the challenges, I did complete!


 First obstacle – ”walk on wire – hold rope” – while I was still worried that I would fall.

 Further on a much more secure Pernille on ”walk on wire, hold rope until it’s too close to wire and then catch hanging ropes instead”


After the Trapezes right before the Swings – the 2 most difficult obstacles.
 
Ending with the zip-line