Batman or something...

Sitting in camp and realising that a bat had chosen the dining area for it's sleeping spot today. The nosiest spot in all camp... Good choise.

Spottet in Rishikesh...

And soon Laila's reaching...

Back on the bike...

...After more than three weeks - due to visits, first from the family, then that bloody cold. I celebrated being back on the cycle by driving a bit further than usual. Oh, and then of course by taking a few shots on  my break spot - just to make you guys jealous.

Newly polished nails

Oh yes, this is actually my life and I feel pretty good about it.

They've been constructing a wall, during my stay here and I've been able to follow the process. It's to recreate the road in one of the places it collapsed during last monsoon. They've come pretty far by now and I wanted to get a snap. In return the boss were allowed to take a few snaps of me - fair deal.

The purpose of it all

This afternoon, I was sitting in a cane chair on the shore of Ganga watching the water floating by, thinking. While sitting there, Negiji came over asking if I wanted a cup of chai. Negiji works in the kitchen in camp. He's 60+ and his only reason to come was to ask if I wanted a cup of chai. Then he got me a cup of chai and we chatted a bit about how nice it is that the sun is back after a couple of days' rain. Then he walked back. And I was back at watching water floating by and being happy.

Earlier, I'd taken a couple of pics of the boys rafting in a double raft.

Delhi according to Nigel

I've got a rather bad sinusitis and hence spends most of my time in bed. As I don't experience much new, I've once again found an old letter that'll make it today's story.

My biggest tourist experience in Delhi was the guided tour with Nigel Hankin. Actually, such a great experience that I came back for a secound tour a couple of years later. The following text is an excerpt from my letter about the first tour in 2003 while the pictures are from my second tour in 2006. Here goes:

Nigel is an incredible old Englishman (incredible meaning 83 years old). He's lived in Delhi since 1945, where he was transferred to after a couple of years in Northern Africa during Second World War. He was supposed to move on to Burma to fight the Japanese, but the war ended while Nigel was in Delhi and so he stayed. First working for the British government and after independence for the new Indian government that needed some help during transition. After a couple of years, the Indian government didn't need his help any longer, and Nigel continued working for the British High Commission in Delhi and never returned to UK (except for occasional holidays). He retired in the early 80'ies and now earns an extra living by showing his Delhi. It's sort of a secret, how you get in touch with Nigel and when you're going on a tour with him you promise only to pass on the secret to very few others.

First stop on the tour was Indira Gandhi's house. My impression at my first visit had been rather boring, but with Nigel's little details about her strolls in the garden, when he passed by on cycle on his way to work, or about her immaculate charisma, the house suddenly appeared much more interesting. Likewise with the government buildings and the presidential palace, when described and illustrated by news paper cuttings and pictures almost as old as the buildings themselves. 

From the government buildings

Later on we visited a deserted area 12 km north of the presidential palace. Next to the open dirt field was an unkept garden. When entering the garden you're welcomed by a gigantic statue of King George V. Around him are 20 pedestal of which only 4 holds a statue. This was the coronation place of King George and also the spot, where he declared Imperial Delhi the new capital of India (later on it became New Delhi - even the Brits could see Imperial Delhi were over the top). After independence all British statues in Delhi where moved to this garden and originally all colonial statues in India were supposed to be transferred here. The state governments preferred to keep theirs, though, hence the empty pedestals.

Lunch were eaten in colonial surroundings at Maidens Hotel, and afterwords we continued to Old Delhi. Delhi consists of seven cities from different epoques. The different rulers of the city have wanted to show their might and power by building a new city next to or on top of the old ones. The two newest cities are today known as Old Delhi and New Delhi. Originally, Old Delhi was called Shah Jahanabad named after it's creator – Shah Jahan. (Shah Jahan is also the creator of another more famous piece of architecture: Taj Mahal).

Old Delhi is very far from it's former greatness as it has grown into the whole sale centre of entire Delhi. Still bloody interesting to visit. We were walking through narrow streets, houses, up some stairs, through a corridor, down some other stairs, etc. etc. looking at trading, sitting, glaring, smiling, working, eating, sleeping Indians. We walked like this for hours and still we only visited a minor part of the area. Many visitors find Old Delhi filthy and crowded, but being with Nigel, who knows the place and the inhabitants, stops to tell about Tea Street, greets the shop owners and the rickshaw wallahs, the place opens up and you find out that it may be a busy place, but nobody tries to sell you anything and definitely not overpriced, they basically just want to show their craft. Old Delhi is full of pictures, impressions, smells, sounds, everything. This is where fairy tales begin but never ends.

 

So ended my story of Delhi according to Nigel. Unfortunately (but understandably) Nigel passed away a few years ago, so the era of truly historic tours has ended. My story will end with a (in my opinion) poetic picture of Nigel in his very own Old Delhi. Thanks for the tour!

Waste Food Gallery

 At Atali, the food is presented on small stones, so each dish on the buffet has it's own stone. When I got up here, the boys had lost their control over the stones, which meant that almost every day a nwe stone were made and the old ones where put in an increasingly larger pile.

 We sorted all the old ones. All dublets, ugly written or faulty spelled where sent of to the Waste Food Gallery, where you'll now find adds for all the delicious dishes up here.

I have, though, put my favourite aside. It is Wanut Buroni - or walnut brownie as it is rightfully spelled.

And finally a picture from the pantry this evening.

Ganga Kayak Festival

Yesterday was the day of Ganga Kayak Festival. It was a full day of competition and 35 participants competed in the three different runs. Most participants were local and so were the organisers. Aquaterra came with their strongest kayakers...

 On our way to the venue this morning.

 The welcome ceremony. Rana (from Aquaterra) was chied guest, which he was very very proud of - and of course appreciated by giving a good well prepared speach.

 Some of the participants before starting. As a teaser, I can say that the coming over-all winner is in this picture.

 The little twist to the story is that I's been asked to commentate during the day. This meant that some people, absolutely voluntarily had given me a microphone, turned it on and let me speak whatever I felt like. For hours.

 The view from a slightly hung-overed commentator spot on a wonderfully big rock.

 The festival took place by one of the biggest rapids on Ganga, so once in a while a raft came by, which made the commentator get the audience cheer for a flip. And it actually happened... Once...

 Preparation of the price ceremony.

 The happy winners and the just as happy organizers. It was a great great success.

And finally the winner of it all, Sanjay, with his 2 trophies. He came first, second and seventh in the 3 competitions and hence also won the overall competition. Kahna Singh and Sohan from Aquaterra also ended on the podium Big hurrays and congratulations from the only slightly impartial commentator. But hey, it's my samdi, we're talking about.

A hitch and a song

I went back to the mountains today. First the train to Haridwar. I'd actually thought of taking an autorickshaw from there to Rishikesh, but then I met an Australian backpacker, who asked if I was going with the bus and I thougt "why not?" That saved me a dollar on transportation - wauv... - and could explain the environmentalist from Australia a bit about where he'd ended up. When I'd sent him on with a couple of younger an more enthusiastic girls from Costa Rica, it turned out I could get a lift onwards with Padri, who's a driver for Aquaterra. He was in Rishikesh anyways and he'd be there in another hour. An hour is really not much in India.

It's always good to drive with Padri. First of all he's a fright ass, who likes being alive. That's just the kind of driver you'd like to go with in India. He doesn't take any risks! And today we had a longer conversation on the way. By now, I know enough Hindi to make real conversations - beyond finding out whether Im fine or not.

Today, we spoke about my family, which he likes - nice people, that my nephew is a charmer (as if I didn't know), when I'll come visit his house - his wife will cook and I can sleep over. And then of course a couple of songs. We were singing in Garwhali, Hindi and Danish. My Hindi is far from perfect - but I do feel like I've made it somewhere!

The family says goodbye

To all of you out there. Here from cycling down from Paukedevi, where we'd been invited for tea at Pundirji's family.

And not least goodbye from Ferdinand, who's spent the past 2 weeks charming all of India - and well, auntie...

One more wedding

I believe this could be the year, where I'll participate in most weddings. It will definitely be the year, where I'll participate in most weddings for people I hardly know.

And finally it was time for one at Atali. The entire hotel had been booked (hence my family had to stay another night in the camp, which they btw didn't mind at all). Lots of planning had gone ahead of the wedding itself and I was very impressed to see the result, when I reached Atali. My family had been invited by the couple so we came by for a couple of hours and witnessed a bit of the ceremony. 

The vedi with the fireplace in the centre where the ceremony will take place.

 

The groom waiting for his bride. The athmosphere at the wedding were very relaxed and happy. As ceveral of my family members mentioned - it would be ok to have Danish weddings inspired by this.

 The bride and her followers. The Indian bride is traditionally wearing red. She was very very beautiful, which I believe is rather easy to get from the photo.

The negotiation of whether the knot should be tied. The groom tries to convince the bride to follow him and the brides family resists for a while - shouldn't be too easy. Of course everybody knows how the negotiations will end. Luckily.

 

Lots of viewers at the balcony. Not least the staff were very excited. It was the first wedding at Atali and they were at least as happy as the guests.

Benches..

As earlier mentioned, an Irish group visited Atali in November. Besides leaving an unforgettable impression they also left a donation for purchasing furniture for the local school in Sirasu, beacuse one of the class rooms in the school didn't have any furniture when the group visited the school during their stay. It turned out they's had enough tables but still needed benches.

And finally the benches were ready. Before leaving for my family trip, I came along to Rishikesh and collected the benches at the carpenter.

 The maker of the benches - and Atali's carpenter, Vikram, in the background.

The carpenter work shop.

Back at Atali, Vikram had carved the names Aquaterra Adventures and Fighting Blindness Ireland in all the benches. When my family had returned to the mountains, they got the chance for participating in handing over the bences in Sirasu.

First the benches were taken to Gullar next to the ferry crossing to Sirasu. My family were eager to help carrying.

 They weren't allowed that for long as some of the school kids from Sirasu showed up. They'd crossed with the ferry to our side of the river and came running, grabbing the benches while smiling and cheering. No doubts they were exited about the donation.

 Benches and school kids on board of the ferry. Jeetu og Pankaj both raft guides and from Sirasu took care of the ferry crossing.

 Safely over, the benches were grabbed again and carried the last bit up to Sirasu.

 Solil, who's in charge of horticulture at Atali, had donated note books for all the kids in the school. They also had to be carried.

 The benches are lined up outside the class rooms. The will be a pooja for the benches before they're being used.

 Fighting Blindness Ireland - the donor organisation.

I had the pleasure of handing over the note books.

 The girls at school had prepared a performance of local songs and dancing..

Nothing in this world is more picturesque than Indian school kids!